3uz-fe | The Z Club of Great Britain


Discussion in 'Hybrid Z cars' started by johnymd, Oct 15, 2016.

  1. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Well the engines sorted, just need to make my mind up about which car.

    The engine's now running with minimum of wiring but still using the factory fuses and relays. Its an nice self contained loom that just requires battery + and -, starter signal, and ignition on signal to get it to run. The relay sequencing is vital or you will never get idle control to work properly.

    Here's a short vid of it running on the floor.


    I must add, Terry and Tom did a lot of work stripping most of the surplus wiring from the engine and I have just done the relay sequencing and power feeds.
  2. datsfun

    Z Club Member

    Awesome. Another Hybrid awaits...personally I would love to see this in a 70's Japanese saloon or station wagon.
  3. rich

    rich New Forum User

    Wow, what more can I say.
  4. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Thanks. Can't wait to get it in the car. It was going in the ratty 240 but as its been delayed for another6 weeks, it's going in the 280z, which should be here in a week or so.

    I finished wrapping the loom so that's all the wiring done. Started looking at how it's going to fit and what to do about engine mounts. There are a few issues and I'll have to weigh up the options. The oil filter will need relocating and there is a custom part someone makes for this. The sump touches the front crossmember. I could change to a mid or rear sump but these are hard to come by. I could notch a bit out of the front of the sump but the engine will still be tight to the balk head. I don't want to push the engine too far forward but this may be the easiest way and I could use the supra engine mount kit.

    Needs some thinking.
  5. candy red

    candy red
    Z Club Member

    Sounds great Jon no wonder your smiling :bow:

    Derrick ;)
  6. TomZupra

    TomZupra New Forum User

    Yeah that was an interesting loom to work out, just make sure you get the engine ground points back to the battery nicely. The cam signals are a bit picky
  7. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Membership Secretary

    Clever guys, well done.
  8. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    I noticed a few grounds were cut which I will reinstate. Toyota, at the time were very careful about grounding specific parts of the engine, as with my 1j, so I'll try and work out were they went. There are a couple of wires for the obd port that go nowhere. One has a spade connector on it and the other is labeled "POS own lug". Also a pink wire from the port is just cut. Any ideas where these went as I would like to try and get the This port working?

  9. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Had another look at engine location today. Placed a cross member on the ground, under the engine, and marked the bulkhead on the floor. I then spent a while moving the engine around until I was happy with its location. Looks like the sump will need some extensive modification if I cant find a rear sump kit.
  10. tel240z

    Z Club Member

    It did work i plugged my launch diagnostic scanner in and read only one code which was brake light switch not connected
  11. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Ok Terry, I'll dig a bit deeper as to what those wires are for.
  12. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Just had a quick google and it look pretty simple.
  13. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    I've been trying to get hold of a rear sump to replace the front sump in order to make mounting the engine easier. This has proved fruitless in finding one at a reasonable price. I can get a custom one but I'm not paying £800 so it's back to seeing if its feasible to modify mine enough to get the engine in a reasonable place. I would like it quite far back in the engine bay but not too far that It becomes a problem. The further back I go the less I have to mod the sump. To give you an idea, if the rear of the engine nearly touches the bulkhead then I wont have to modify the sump at all but engine mounts will be a long way out. So if I compromise and place the engine so I can fabricate mounts to just reach the original crossmember location and then only take a couple of inches out of the front of the sump so I don't interfere with the pickup then it should work, just, I think. Once I removed the oil filter assembly I'll have a better idea.

    Next decision is whether to solid mount the engine or not. This is pretty common with v8's and will make the mounts a lot easier.

    At least the car has reappeared on the tracking and I'll be collecting it next week so trial fitting can begin.
  14. racer

    racer Active Forum User

  15. tel240z

    Z Club Member

    :rolleyes: should have just stuck a rover 3.9 efi in :p
  16. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Thanks Matt. I had looked at these sumps and I guess it's what really put me off custom sumps. When you look at just how complex the factory sump is and how much thought has gone into the design then compare it to this simple box, I will stick with a factory design. The other thing that put me off was how deep they are and that drain plug is just asking to be knocked off at the first speed bump.

    This is what I'm hoping to get away with.

    Attached Files:

  17. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Never look back, the only way is forward. I WILL make it work.

    or I'll just put a fan on the gearbox and use it as an extract.
  18. TomZupra

    TomZupra New Forum User

    I had the wiring diagrams from the ls430 but didn't find them that accurate, I found the 1uz stuff was better you just have to work out the wire color changes. Watch out for the key transponder position too it can be a bit picky.

    You keeping it throttle by wire I guess? Always love itbs on the lexus v8s
  19. racer

    racer Active Forum User

  20. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    Both front sumps which is what I have already. The ali part is the same both the steel section of the pan has a large section removed but its from the back and not the front. Keep up the search though as I'm still hopeful in finding one. Just don't want to spend more than £200 on one. I will need all the parts though. That's both ali and steel section, windage tray , pickup and bracket, dip stick and all the bolts as they are different sizes and lengths. I will also need to drill the bloke for the dipstick and drill and retap some of the how to attach the sump. Now you can probably see why I may want to modify my sump pan and leave everything else intact.

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