280z Tuning

[Dave B]

Right guys, so, I'm getting stuck into stripping the 280z I bought, to sort the bodywork, and am still unsure of where the project is going to lead performance wise. I bought the z for 2 reasons, A, the looks, B, I want it to be quick. (i've owned a handful of performance gap cars in recent years, evo 8 with 460 bhp, R32 GTR with 400bhp, Evo 10 with 440 bhp)
My initial thought, before I bought the car was an RB transplant, and Its still a strong option. But the more Z's I look at with the L series engine in, the more I'm warming to keeping the L28 and tuning it.
What are my options, and the best order to go about them. I've read on a few US boards that the standard efi system is gash, and is unmodifiable and unreliable. (its also ugly as sin, under my bonnet looks messy and unruly with all the emissions related pipes and fuel pipes, and wiring. Would ditching it and going for Throttle bodies, or triple webers be the obvious major change? Followed by full exhaust, manifold, and a cam? What sort of power could I expect from standard internals, and a standard head with the above mods?
Or would a full engine build be the only way to break the 200 bhp barrier?

 

[datsfun]

A lot depends on your budget. Getting to the 200-220 mark isn't too expensive. Anything beyond that and especially 250+ bhp will need a fair amount of engineering and deepish pockets.

If you want a drop in solution then have a look stateside as well (ignoring the HP claims). Robello and Datsun spirit come to mind..

Kudos for wanting to stick with the L series...

 

[Dave B]

I'm still undecided mate to be honest, it'll be a while till the car is ready for the road, and like i say, i bought it with the intention of doing an RB transplant. Theres a guy breaking an R33 gts at the moment, and I have the chance to buy the engine and manual box as a matched package for a reasonable amount, I dunno wether to get it and store it while I've got the money spare lol. Or keep the L28 and tune that, hence asking what my options are now.

 

[MikeB]

I'm David

This is a huge question and has the potential to create great debate.

Apart from tuning the engine and whatever way you go, Hybrid or Classic, you also have to consider whatelse will be required to match the power you are intending to get insert. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, wheels and chassis mods will all add considerably to the price, as you'll need the car to stop, turn and stay in one piece to make it fun to drive and safe.

As to tuning the engine,a full new Webers set-up will be £16-1700, cam, rockers and a vernier wheel another £4-500, one of Sean's new exhaust systems the guts of a grand, and if you are doing that you really should get some head work done £?. Then a rolling road session to set it all up. Plus, plus numerous extras not mentioned.

However at the end of that, you will still have a vehicle that!s classified as a classic car, with whatever benefits that brings

There are several threads on here with guys putting modern power plants into these cars and you can gauge the work and expense involved from those, and how they tickle your fancy.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[vipergts]

I have the same engine and in the process of getting it sorted

One thing for sure is you will have to mod the head...super low compression as it is

Also flat top pistons...I think from memory we skimmed the head by just over 30 thou and a lot of porting too

Mines on TB's I expect it to give just over 200 horses with mild cam

 

[SeanDezart]

'judging the book by the cover' and losing a possible exhausts sale (thanks Mike for the plug), I'd say that you'll want the R33 kit and in any case, if it's a good deal and local, you'll not lose on it if you change your mind later.

You want it to be quick but haven't said more where and for what. Being a 280Z you won't be 'losing' value by not having and L-gata under the skin.

As Datsfun said - +200 and it begins to get expensive and every increment thereafter shoots up in price and if you don't have to adhere to a specific rulebook - why bother as in these cars, even 180 out of the 'L' feels great !

 

[status]

I have an L6 pushing 257 BHP on throttle bodies,can go to aour 320 but if it ain't broke as they say,also Quaife lsd ,updated brakes,etc,it doesn't stop

 

[SeanDezart]

Brakes and LSDs are for poofs with long hair-dos.....and wy don't you quote how much your engine cost before supporting such an idea ?

 

[Dave_Brown]

I can imagine it's not a cheaper option to keep the L28, but am warming to the option of keeping 'the right engine' in the car. Hence asking how easy it is to extract power from it.
I dunno, the obvious option for decent power is the RB25, but it's a sh1tload of extra work, new engine and gearbox mounts, sump, prop, driveshafts, wiring, plumbing in of rad, cooler etc. That said, if I keep the l series I'll want it on carbs or throttle bodies as like I said, under the bonnet looks messy atm. Yes of course suspension and brakes will be getting upgraded no matter what. The r33 isn't local it's 180 miles away, but the price is reasonable and o could always keep the package in the shed and sell later if I do keep the engine that's in the z now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SeanDezart]

Yes, the less cheap L28 option maybe (?) offsets against the extra work and cost of installing non-Z engine and gear.....

I think that a road Z with a non Z engine is not 'as cool' as one with - intensive track-day use and runs are something else but classic remains classic. But that's just my feeling - your car - your choice, no one can criticise it if made for the right reasons.

 

[MikeB]

David

The head is key to power in any engine, so I would suggest you maybe have a look on here and see who does engine tuning, maybe send them a PM, tell them what cylinder head you have on the car, it's marked on the plug side of the head between Nr 1 & 2 cylinders and ask them about work on it. You probably want a Stage 3 cam (which is a ultra fast road/rally cam) which keeps the car usable on the road.They can give you an idea of costs and potential power and any other recommended mods. Then you'll know from the guys that know what can be achieved, and the probable costs.

 

[SeanDezart]

Who does do L-series engine tuning then ?

 

[chrisvega]

I think that a road Z with a non Z engine is not 'as cool' as one with - intensive track-day use and runs are something else but classic remains classic. But that's just my feeling - your car - your choice, no one can criticise it if made for the right reasons.

Agreed and then there is a hierarchy of ' cool '
L24/26/28 positively ' Arctic '

Cars fitted with later series Nissan engines still retain a nod to the heritage and origin so just a small step down and still cool...ish

Cars fitted with big block Fords and Chevies.....bottom of the class, stand ( or park ) in the corner

All IMHO of course

 

[SeanDezart]

Cars fitted with big block Fords and Chevies.....bottom of the class, stand ( or park ) in the corner

All IMHO of course

There are other options : Toyota, BMW.....and then L-gatas with turbos or superchargers - all sorts of options really.

But I'll keep my Latmo

 

[MikeB]

Who does do L-series engine tuning then ?

Who does yours?

 

[SeanDezart]

Who does yours?

Damn - trapped !

Let's wait and see the dyno figures first.

 

[datsfun]

Who does yours?

Last we heard he was preaching about the amazing BMW M3? powerplant that was going into one of his rides..

Perhaps it's back to L series now? Sean What's the current flavour?

 

[SeanDezart]

The answer is in post 16 unless your powers of deduction are wilting....

 

[grolls]

Who does yours?

Massey Ferguson.... shhhhhhhh I dint tell you

 

[SeanDezart]

So long as it isn't F*rd !