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280z L28 ignition timing.
- Thread starter Andre
- Start date
They were all gapped wrong so gapped the new ones as you advised .
Found two potentiol problems now one is the pipe under the inlet plenum it is going back to under the throttle body housing but there is a like a bung in there where as I didn't expect there to be anything in there as i was under the conclusion it's a breather pipe for a reason.
2nd issue
There is a blue pipe coming from the engine block itself that has no pipe going to it at all but when I put my finger in there the revs increased slightly so again it should be connected somewhere but can't see anywhere it should go to.
Found two potentiol problems now one is the pipe under the inlet plenum it is going back to under the throttle body housing but there is a like a bung in there where as I didn't expect there to be anything in there as i was under the conclusion it's a breather pipe for a reason.
2nd issue
There is a blue pipe coming from the engine block itself that has no pipe going to it at all but when I put my finger in there the revs increased slightly so again it should be connected somewhere but can't see anywhere it should go to.
Better picture of the blue pipe from the block with nothing on it , I can't see anywhere or anything it should be connected to .
The black one with the jubilee clip is the other one as it's connected under the throttle body but where it's connected to it has a bung in it with a flag head screw inside so the pipe isn't doing anyghing.
So it's not essential to do anything with that one then? Except probably put a little breather on it?
How come the revs went up slightly with my finger in it though?
Mr.F
Inactive
The 280Z and 280ZX engines prefer to run as a "buttoned up" system. There should be a pipe from crank breather (blue pipe) to a PCV valve on the underside of the inlet manifold.
Not a UK part but similar to the 240Z / 260Z version - you may be able to adapt one of those to fit. Otherwise available on USA special order at £25.72 + VAT.
Not a UK part but similar to the 240Z / 260Z version - you may be able to adapt one of those to fit. Otherwise available on USA special order at £25.72 + VAT.
This thread inspired me to experiment and I advanced the base timing to around 15 degrees at which point the engine idle sped up. So I'm taking that as a good sign. On the road the car is a lot keener / more responsive and pulls harder; the exhaust note is subtly gruntier too. On cold mornings, she starts on the button as opposed to the 10-15 seconds of cranking I had before.
I'm using a 280zx dizzy on a stock L26 with 240 SU carbs. Any informed opinions on if this is somehow a bad timing for my engine, given it goes really well now and I don't hear pinking?
OK, dummy questions: how do I find the advance curve for a 12-80 dizzy? I totally get the point of advancing the timing as engine speed rises but why do you need any more advance at part throttle (I.e the vac advance)? What is the theory behind it making the car go any more smoothly?
Apologies if this is a thread hijack, but I thought it was relevant.
Ali K
I'm using a 280zx dizzy on a stock L26 with 240 SU carbs. Any informed opinions on if this is somehow a bad timing for my engine, given it goes really well now and I don't hear pinking?
OK, dummy questions: how do I find the advance curve for a 12-80 dizzy? I totally get the point of advancing the timing as engine speed rises but why do you need any more advance at part throttle (I.e the vac advance)? What is the theory behind it making the car go any more smoothly?
Apologies if this is a thread hijack, but I thought it was relevant.
Ali K
So a little google action uncovered a couple of great links i thought you guys may also find useful ......
This one has a very useful excel file in it showing advance curves for various dizzies:
http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/31615-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference/
This is great for rebuilding you 280zx dizzy:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
This one has a very useful excel file in it showing advance curves for various dizzies:
http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/31615-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference/
This is great for rebuilding you 280zx dizzy:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
Well after plumbing the car in as it should be the engine seems to run spot on again now and as mentioned above removing the oil cps while the car is running makes it wanna stall where as before I'd remove it and it would just stay the same.
The exhaust sounds alot quieter as well now it's running better , still need to take it out on the open road to see if it all feels ok .
Too the car down the street and depressing the clutch made it rev to about 2000rpm so had to lift the accelerator pedal with my foot . Thinking this problem is caused by the throttle damper ( if that's whT it's called) the little unit that sits against the throttle with a white cap on the top of it so will alter that on my next outing .
The exhaust sounds alot quieter as well now it's running better , still need to take it out on the open road to see if it all feels ok .
Too the car down the street and depressing the clutch made it rev to about 2000rpm so had to lift the accelerator pedal with my foot . Thinking this problem is caused by the throttle damper ( if that's whT it's called) the little unit that sits against the throttle with a white cap on the top of it so will alter that on my next outing .