260Z Project - 260Z GT-R

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
You've done a wonderful job there Ian. As you know I've seen that car and it was 'crying out' for an engine bay refresh to compliment the rest of the car.

Of course you've gone a lot further than that !
 

Ian

Club Member
You've done a wonderful job there Ian. As you know I've seen that car and it was 'crying out' for an engine bay refresh to compliment the rest of the car.

Of course you've gone a lot further than that !
Thanks, the engine bay was the only thing letting it down, not any more,





That looks well. R1R's are lovely tyres too.
Thanks. The R1R's seem really good, even in the cold they are really sticky, only problem is they pick up gravel and chuck it at the car.




Looking great Ian. Its good to see a project turn around so quick.
Thanks. It doesn't seem quick enough to me. Flat out at the moment, got the Datsun to sort, work to do on the RB and I'm rebuilding my B20 ready to drop into the Civic tomorrow, feeling very stressed.




by the time this is finished it could be the best Z i've ever seen, even though i've not actually seen it yet!
Thanks a lot. I doubt it will be the best Z out there, but I will make it as good as my budget allows me to. Already massively overbudget :unsure:
 
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Ian

Club Member
Looks fantastic Ian you must be well pleased :bow:

Derrick;)
Thanks Derrick, I am very pleased, I love how it looks now, just few small details to sort out and it will be finished until the RB goes in.


Not any updates at the moment, I've been flat since Saturday working on my civic, just had the bay resprayed in it, tucked the fuse box and built up and installed a brand new B20, I just started first time tonight so almost there, just got to sort a few things and its ready for MOT on Thursday. Once its done I can get back to the Datsun, apart from the 1000 miles I need to do to run the engine in.



The 260 isn't running right at the moment, keeps putting fuel out from the intake and also sometimes the overflow on the float chamber (though not always at the same time) Would seem that the problem is with the float chamber needle valve, but I've cleaned it and it seems to work fine. Anyway, I'll take the carbs apart and see whats up, they are bound to need a clean anyway as my old fuel tank was full of rust, my fuel filter were only lasting about 100 miles before getting blocked.
 

NikWilson

Well-Known Forum User
I have a load of various sized OE genuine Nissan shims for the Tappet buckets from shimming my RB26 engine if you need to adjust the valve clearances. Left over from my old R34 GTR with HKS GT-SS's fitted that I rebuilt. They are hard to get hold of. I have been told that Peugot ones fit? Let me know if you need any.
 

Ian

Club Member
I have a load of various sized OE genuine Nissan shims for the Tappet buckets from shimming my RB26 engine if you need to adjust the valve clearances. Left over from my old R34 GTR with HKS GT-SS's fitted that I rebuilt. They are hard to get hold of. I have been told that Peugot ones fit? Let me know if you need any.
Thanks for the offer although hopefully I won't need them, the engine was refreshed very recently.

How did you find the RB with the GT-SS?







Well, I haven't forgotten about this. Should be running good again soon, carbs have been cleaned and balanced but its still spitting out fuel, I've ordered two new float lid assemblies which should arrive vey soon, once I fit them then hopefully its all good again and I can finally take her for proper caster, camber and toe setup.



But in the meantime I've been working on tidying up the RB:

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My twin turbo pipe arrived, it been modified with a baffle which will smooth the airflow where the flow from the two turbos meet. Mean more power an less shuffle. I will grind the welds smooth and then its off to get polished along with a few other parts.

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Trust Downpipe:

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Took off my exhaust manifolds, I will be using these stock ones as tubular ones often crack and don't offer any better results than ported stock ones. You can see they need ported where the soot has built up around the edges, I will port them so they are slightly bigger than the outlets from the head, this avoids turbulence.

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Took off, the fan and power steering pump both of which won't be going back on. I also took off a lot of the other parts to clean them up.

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My clear cambelt cover wasn't so clear, so I polished it up, I think it came up pretty good, meaning I'll probably use this over the painted one:

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Spent a long time cleaning up these parts:

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Painted one side of my block tonight:

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Still got to clean and paint the other side of the block, clean up my turbos, take off the intake manifold to be sent for soda blasting and take off the rocker covers to get the -10 fittings welded on, then they are off to get painted.
 

Ian

Club Member
Can't get this thing to run, its in the garage with a mechanic who has worked with carbs before. Anyone got any ideas?


Was leaking fuel out the float overflows, but I've fitted new float assemblies and that's fixed that.

Its running fine on the front carb, but it won't run on the rear, the cabs have been cleaned out and setup so should be good. They mentioned something about lifting the damper and it runs fine? I've been brought up on fuel injection so carbs are something I don't really know much about
 

astroboy

Well-Known Forum User
Can't get this thing to run, its in the garage with a mechanic who has worked with carbs before. Anyone got any ideas?


Was leaking fuel out the float overflows, but I've fitted new float assemblies and that's fixed that.

Its running fine on the front carb, but it won't run on the rear, the cabs have been cleaned out and setup so should be good. They mentioned something about lifting the damper and it runs fine? I've been brought up on fuel injection so carbs are something I don't really know much about

It maybe worth if you haven't done so already heading to the GTR forums. I know there is a wealth of advice in there. Can send you details of decent people who know RB's pretty well from my days of working with drift orientated people.

Thanks

AstroBoy
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
It maybe worth if you haven't done so already heading to the GTR forums. I know there is a wealth of advice in there. Can send you details of decent people who know RB's pretty well from my days of working with drift orientated people.

Thanks

AstroBoy

RB isn't in yet!

From your description I'm GUESSING there is an air-leak somewhere (or a blockage). Vacuum (depression) is generated on the engine side of the carb and this is linked to an area above the carb piston/damper which causes the piston to rise. The amount it rises is proportional to the amount of vacuum 'fed' to the area above the piston. Or the piston isn't free enough to move by air pressure alone.
 

MikeB

Well-Known Forum User
Ian

Some points to look at, before we get too complicated

1 Have the carbs been balanced using a carb balancer?

2 Are the needles both the same code and are they both sticking out of the piston the same amount? The "shoulder" of the needle ( the thick bit at the blunt end !!) that goes into the hole in the bottom of the piston, should stick out slightly to be level with the bottom of the piston, not level with the groove that runs across the bottom, that the hole is drilled into.

3 Screw the tubular jet at the bottom fully up and then wind it out by 2 1/2 turns on both carbs as a starting setting

Finally, what fuel pump and pressure limiter are you using and is it set down to about 3 psi to suit the needle valve in the float bowls

If you want to give me a ring its Belfast code, then 449930
 

MikeB

Well-Known Forum User
Oh, one more check
EDITED !!!!
Pull out the plugs and see if the rear three are pale or sooty. Chances are they are pale, if it runs better when you push up the plunger, as I suspect its too rweal on the rear carb.

If the rear three plugs are pale or if one of them is pale then you possibly have an air leak
 
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Ian

Club Member
Thanks for the pointers guys, some more stuff for me to check for.


I don't believe carbs have been balanced yet, from what I've been told its not even running on the last 3 cylinders at the moment in order to balance them.

Needles have not been changed so should be correct as before the engine was removed from the bay for the work it was running just fine.

Still using the stock mechanical fuel pump with no pressure limiter (shouldn't be needed with the mechanical pump?)


All the other points I will check out, not sure if the guy will be in tomorrow so I might have to wait until Monday to check it out.

Cheers.



If I've had no luck by Monday evening I may give you a call Mike, thanks.
 

Ian

Club Member
Can't wait to see this RB in Ian. That clear cam cover should look awesome!
Thanks, I can't wait either, I need more POWER :)




Got this running finally, running smoother now than before, but power feels less, might just be because I'm more used to my Civic as my mate doesn't think its lost any power. I need to get that RB in, the L26 needs more go at low revs.



RB is almost ready to go, looking much cleaner now, should be picking the rocker covers up tomorrow after getting the AN fittings welded on, then its off to get painted, dropped off my intake plenum and cold side compressor housings to get soda blasted tonight. Will update once I get more back.
 

Ian

Club Member
Looking Much better after a warm lambs wool mitt bath:


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Where I placed my brake bias valve:

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Cleaned underneath also:

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Big difference to before:

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Some parts are with the polisher, some parts are with the Soda Blaster and my engine covers are with the painter.
 

MikeB

Well-Known Forum User
Great looking car, Ian

Almost a pity that this fabulous 260 will be turned into a hybrid, but then I suppose I'm a Classic guy at heart :)
 
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