260Z Project - 260Z GT-R

[Ian]

Even with the longer cables I still saved near enouth to 10kg that it makes no difference. Also my front suspension and brake setups are lighter than the original stuff, you can also add the that weight saved by removing the external voltage regulator setup and other unwanted brakets.

 

[tel240z]

And use aluminium battery cables like the BMW M3 has now where did I put them

 

[Ian]

Not sure what my battery cables are made from, but for the amperage of them they are quite light and very flexible.






My remaining tyres finally turned up on Friday:

Got the welding almost finished today, welded up any remaining unused holes, just the camber plates left to do tomorrow:

Added a strengthening bar to the front:

I'm not sure whether to also add in some braces to the tension rod area same as this:

What do you guys think? Is it worth doing?





I've always fancied an RB26 in this, but I am also looking at a 2JZ GTTE as an alternative, mainly just because its more reliable.

 

[racer]

I've seen that on quite a few race cars and, i dare say it will make a differance. how far do you go with adding weight though?
The 2jz is a superb engine but, very expensive to buy a supra with a manual box so you have all the bits. If you use the diff aswell it would make a nice smooth car. The R200 is strong but noisy and clunky.

 

[Ian]

Don't want to add much weight, but those bars are very light, a lot lighter than roll cage bar as its just to stiffen it up, it doesn't have to protect people from being crushed.



Supra might cost a bit, but it came in other cars aswell as the supra which should cost less, and if you buy one already out a car they don't cost that much.

 

[racer]

Ok worth doing then I would say, especially If you convert your tension rods too rose joints at a later date.
I didn't know the 2J came in other cars, that's interesting. What models/gearbox etc?
I've been looking at other 1JZ cars myself, Soarer, Chaser etc. I really like the later VVTI single turbo1J's.

 

[johnymd]

Aristo is the common place to find a 2JZ-GTE. No manual box in these though.

 

[tel240z]

As for the tension rod support brackets yes I do recommend it, as when going round spar and running over the rumble strips on the bends on a left hand lock at speed I often had visuals of them brackets taking a pounding but please remember that imo putting them bars in as the picture wont do a lot for strengthening the brackets unless they go through the thin spot welded tin and connect to the bracket itself, also imo the two brackets need connecting as well, just think about it, the tension rod would be 90 degrees to the strengthening bar so in effect the only gain would be how strong is the welding at the inner sill end

Oh and just for the record that's what I intend to do will also give me a another fixing point for the under tray and sump protection

 

[Ian]

Last chance to do it is tomorrow, I'll have another look at it to consider. I was thinking of welding the bar onto the brace that's already there, if I connect the other end at the front end of the bracket (where its thickest) then thats got to be the strongest place. The upright bar is welded to the inner sill, but also to the panel underneath so it should be pretty strong. 90 degree angle isn't ideal, but its bound to help.

 

[Ian]

Got the welding finished today:

Started by aligning, marking and cutting out the holes for the camber plates, then welding the camber plates in:

Top:

And Bottom:

Then ground the edges smooth so it looks like it came that way from the factory:

And added the brackets for my strut brace:

Added a plate to strengthen the anti-roll bar mounting position:

And moved my washer bottle slightly, not far from where it was but it should look better like this:

 

[datsfun]

Keep up the great work !

 

[Mr.G]

Very impressive Ian, you're doing a great job! I don't know what you do for a living but it wouldn't surprise me if this was your day job, you make it look so easy.

We have some very talented members in this club.

 

[morbias]

If my welding looked that good I wouldn't even bother grinding it down

 

[Ian]

Thanks Guys

I've done all the work myself, apart from the welding so I can't take credit for that, I wish I could weld that well, you should see his TIG welds on stainless steel, beautiful.



Definitely not my day job, I look after a 95M Superyacht as a job, which does during winter yard periods involves a lot of sanding, grinding, cutting, prepping, cleaning, filling and painting which I guess help wit the car.

 

[Ian]

New brake pads arrived yesterday so I fitted them to the wilwoods today, as from what I've heard that pads that come with the wilwoods stop you ok, but are a bit noisy and not great cold. I use Hawk HP+ in my Civic and they are great (apart from the dust) so thought I'd give them a go on the Z.

Got a good coat of primer on today, quick rubdown and she will be ready for paint

 

[Ian]

Bay got sprayed on Tuesday:

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Wow - good job done with the repairs, mods and paint.

I looks a lot better than when I saw the car with the thick black paint in there.

 

[Ian]

Thanks

Definilty a lot better, hated that ****** black paint, the rest of the car is fine, whoever did the other work ran out of money when they got to the bay and just hid it under thick black paint and loads of waxoyl. Nothing too serious though, just badly cosmetically finished repairs and the odd bit of rust. Much happier now this is done, knowing my front end is solid, rust free and looks great.

The camber plates turned out great, not sure strut brace brackets look as good but that just because they are missing the bar, once that's in you should hardly notice them.

 

[Ian]

 

[MikeB]

OK, Ian I'll ask the question

Why keep the support bar in the wheel arch blue ?

Great work, will certainly make the engine bay more pleasing to the eye