240z + 1JZ-GTE (manual)

[johnymd]

Maybe I should practice my drinking skills a bit more?

What's wrong with a good old L6 and a pint of real ale

They don't have quite the same kick.

Anyway, been playing with cardboard so I can make up some fixings for the main hoop. Its going to be a full bolt in cage so I can paint it oulside the car. Its hard to measure up for the bracing without the main hoop in exactly the right place so thats my first task.

 

[moggy240]

looks good to me,you are a lucky sod to have access to this equipment,i am sooooo jealous !!!!!!!

 

[Rob Gaskin]

John, don't know if these pics will help but might be worth a look:

Pictures by dat240z - Photobucket

 

[johnymd]

Been driving the car more than working on it lately so not a lot of progress.

I've mounted the ECU on the LHS of the passenger footwell and tided up the wiring a bit (still open as I'm doing mods). I bought a Mk3 supra instrument panel for £20 and stripped out the tacho and speedo. I've taken the gutts out of the Z one and transplanted the bits. I'm now using the z body and face but the supra mechanism and needle(couldn't use z needle as I couldn't get the balance correct). The tacho's back in the car and works perfect. The speedo's not quite ready. I've swapped the electronic gearbox speedo sender for a mechanical one and bought the first part of the cable. I was hoping to use the z cable but I need to get a toyota one of the correct length. I've extended the oil pressure switch whole and fitted the z sender so I've now got a working oil gauge so thats the gauges pretty much sorted. The cars booked in for a rolling road session on 20th and a gizzmo boost controller/fuel cut defender is being setup at the same time, so I'll have a boost gauge as well. The gizzmo ms-2 has got an intelligent turbo timer built in but not decided if they are a good idea.

Not much more progress with the cage. The main hoop is all bolted in but I'm waiting for some brackets to be pressed out and bent up so I can finish the rear mounting points.

 

[johnymd]

Gizzmo MS-2 fitted this week and dynoed Thursday and most of today. Lots of faffing around and swapping boost controllers as the boost indication was all over the place with the controller working sometimes. Turned out to be my fault as I cut into the wrong wire from the map sensor, oops. They were very under standing but took the piss out of me all day today. Although the car spent nearly 2 days on the dyno it was only the last 2 that were really productive. The car runs loads better, no fuel cut and running 14-15 psi with no creap. Fuelings good and boost is up to 10psi by 2000 revs.

HP at the wheels was 293 @ 5300.
Torque was over 300ft/lb between 4300 and 5000.

This gives me a good starting point to build on and I'm already planning the next upgrades. What these runs have shown is that the turbos are a limiting factor and uping the boost did not produce any more usable power, just more heat. They have suggested a few cheap mods that will allow boost changes without screwing up the fueling which I'll probable book in for a couple of weeks time. This, along with a fairly substantial (75hp) mod, if the price is right.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

HP at the wheels was 293 @ 5300.
Torque was over 300ft/lb between 4300 and 5000.

This gives me a good starting point to build on and I'm already planning the next upgrades.

John, that sounds like useful grunt to me. Best to learn how to get the most out of the car with that power before you concern yourself with getting more.

Once again a rolling road session has paid for itself I reckon.

 

[johnymd]

Best to learn how to get the most out of the car with that power before you concern yourself with getting more.

I'm trying to get as many miles under my belt as possible but it will be a steep learning curve. Especially out of corners.

Once again a rolling road session has paid for itself I reckon.

Especially as they wouldn't take more than £80 for the hour they quoted me! Despite it being my fault.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

John, how does your 240Z perform compared to the Soarer with the same engine. I'm interested in knowing what the weight loss did for the engine - has it retained the same charactersisics (I'm assuming it's a soft lazy sort of tune) or does it feel more sporty now it doesn't pull so much weight.

I was taken around Castle Combe by Steve Francis in his V8 240Z (Rover engine at the time). It was quite strange, it didn't rev (or need to be) and so it didn't feel sporty - but was quick.

Has the extra weight affected handling.

 

[johnymd]

The soarer always felt a quick car but was very smooth. The santa pod times were 14.1 @ 98mph. In the Z, the power comes in with a real bang at around 2500rpm and you loose traction in most gears when it does. I think as the weather warns up this won't be such a problem. Weight distribution shouldn't be a problem as I've set the engine a lot further back than the Z one. Looking at my 1/4 mile terminal speed and dyno HP I would say the car may be lighter rather than heavier but I'm not sure. Loss of traction in a straight line is not a major problem as its very predictable but I can't say the same about accelerating out of the bends as its far too easy to loose the back end. I guess it will get better as my confidence grows. I've been bitten a couple of time already and been suprised I got away with it. I need to do some track day to find the limits.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

That's quite interesting John and sort of backs up my thoughts. I think having a car that loses traction easily is hard to drive quickly and saps confidence.

What I would say to you at this point though John is buy some good tyres. Track tyres will improve traction no end but I also found that they breakaway very progressively (on my car anyway) when warm. They will make a huge difference and you would be wise to divert your attention in that direction now that the car is running well. Of course improved braking without lock-up is another useful benefit.

You watch any form of motorsport - tyre choice and wear will be at the top of everyones mind. The recent Monte Carlo Rally was all about tyre choice - even on the dry days.

 

[johnymd]

Tyres have been on my mind for a while now but it doesn't stop there. Ideally I'd want to swap to 8" rims as well so what was £800 for tyres is now nearly £1400. Much as I'd love them, that's just not an option at the moment. I need sponsorship! or a seconhand pair to get me started. Not haveing a large disposable income really gets in the way of my fun!

 

[Rob Gaskin]

John, lots of people are in the same boat these days that's why there are so many cars for sale. You have modified your car as cheaply as poss to get that sort of time - you deserve a pat on the back. Mind you, you have lost a Soarer in the process!

There is no way I would spend that sort of money either (no really ). There are always s/h wheels for sale - I bought two sets of 7 x 15 off this site. Then keep an eye on ebay for track tyres. You have to scout about - there is a guy in Hinckley who races a Fiesta and uses 15" tyres so I've had a few from him for next to nothing. I also bought some 18" Dunlop track tyres for my 350 for £10 each (still legal off a roadgoing Porsche).

What I have learnt though is to keep a set of wheels and tyres for road use and MoTs.

 

[datsun dave]

Keep a eye out on the parts for sale.

£80.00 for a set of 4 15" wheels from Pmac and a set of free new Dunlop track day tyres from Dave Jarman.

And a tube of Autosol.

 

[samuri-240]

I have a set of 16x8 Rota's fitted with michelin cup sport tyres, wheels & tyres only done 100 miles from new, asking £695.

 

[johnymd]

£80.00 for a set of 4 15" wheels from Pmac and a set of free new Dunlop track day tyres from Dave Jarman.

Thanks Dave, I'll take them.............. or are you just showing me what I've missed

I have a set of 16x8 Rota's fitted with michelin cup sport tyres, wheels & tyres only done 100 miles from new, asking £695.

Very tempted as these are my wheels of choice but the tyres would need to be A048's. I'll keep my eyes open for track tyres and squeeze them on my existing wheels.

 

[240z]

Gizzmo MS-2 fitted this week and dynoed Thursday and most of today. Lots of faffing around and swapping boost controllers as the boost indication was all over the place with the controller working sometimes. Turned out to be my fault as I cut into the wrong wire from the map sensor, oops. They were very under standing but took the piss out of me all day today. Although the car spent nearly 2 days on the dyno it was only the last 2 that were really productive. The car runs loads better, no fuel cut and running 14-15 psi with no creap. Fuelings good and boost is up to 10psi by 2000 revs.

HP at the wheels was 293 @ 5300.
Torque was over 300ft/lb between 4300 and 5000.
.

Great stuff - I think it sounds very similar to mine, bear in mind my power was at the hubs, not the wheels. Having said that my best terminal speed has been 114, so it would seem to be down on power to yours at the track... dead impressed with what you have done, hope to catch up with you and the car soon.

Where did you go for the set up by the way, where they knowledgeable about 1JZs?

 

[johnymd]

Thanks Phil. The HP figure of 293 at the rollers seams to be backed up with a 117.47 terminal. I'll have to get the car weighed but I don't think its lighter than most. The rolling road pride themselves on accurate rather optimistic figures and will not give engine HP as it would only be a guess. I'm surprised mine is this high given how standard it is.

Look forward to meeting up soon and comparing cars, especially down the strip.

 

[johnymd]

I've been having too much fun in the Z lately and after the Jap car meet at the Halfway House last night, I waved goodbye to my clutch. I thought is was starting to slip a bit in 4th and 5th but its now doing it in 3rd as well. Looks like my ali rad is going to be pushed to the back of the list again

Been searching around and it looks like its going to be over £100 for the 3 bits. Not looking forward to fitting it as that gearbox looks HEAVY.

 

[SKiddell]

Respectfully JP, £100 for a clutch (even a friction disc) is cheap and performance clutches are not cheap.

PS dont for get to bring some decent brakes to Mallory.....your gonna need them

 

[Mr.F]

looks like its going to be over £100 for the 3 bits

Is that a typo? You left a 0 off, right? Or are you thinking of a friction disc faced with hardboard from B & Q?