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Yep think I paid similar, they use a technique called barrel plating to do a bucket full so it’s reasonably priced. You need to have all paint off for it to work.

I’ve had a similar issue with mine, I was wondering why the motor was going flat at 6500rpm, I thought perhaps not enough advance so did a bit of testing with the laptop hooked up, turns out the ecu rev counter scaling was down by 25%. Once corrected 6500 rpm becomes 8200rpm so at least I know...

I’ve done it recently, the only aspect that I couldn’t get to work was using sound frequency to drive the tacho. I bought a signal Generator for about £5 of ebay and it made the job easy and I could test full scale. There’s a bit of info on my build blog.

I agree with this on both counts. Do your research on sound deadening, the butyl sheets do not absorb road noise they remove panel vibration. Dodomat is a good 2nd layer for road noise, but it doesn’t shape too well on complex curves and the weight mounts up. There are other products more...

Ive got them fitted too, I wouldn’t say they’re night and day difference but they’re good. They work off the dimmer ok. They’re also bi-directional (so not strictly an LED?) but that makes install easier. Problems I’ve had are that they don’t fit too well inside the coloured caps set in the...

I did have a look and then found an LD. From memory all the bearings and positions are the same, but it needs a bit of work on the snout and tail, so you’d need to be handy on the lathe and grinder. I’m sure it can be done and have seen one Aussie post where it was mentioned.

I’ll take both pls, thanks

Result!! Sounds very smooth. Was it oil & water tight?

What wheels did you find in +10? I hunted high and low!!

Good luck Jon! Always a stressful time.

They look great! I’m on the same wheel jr19 but 16x8 ET0. I’ve got 205/55 on and I’ve got to be well down before anything rubs. Have a look at the pics above you can see how they sit.

Just had a quick dash round to a mates house for a few retro v modern pics… and a couple of arty shots for good measure.

I did similar, I thought a 240z cable would fit a 260z. The end ferrules are too small, they’re beefed up on later cars. Easy enough to turn up an adapter bush tho. I then ended up shortening everything for the disc conversion

As stated the 2 bladed version is both a switch and sender, easy to check which you need by having a look at yours. The 2 bladed is late 280z (I think) and 280zx. They work and read the same if you just connect a single blade, I’ve tested both back to back against a new single pin version...

My vote for the ebay version. I have a 3 core 280z one and it’s been spot on so far. Reckon all the alu ones will be made in a similar sweat shop so will be of a similar quality.

Can u build a pad of chemical metal and set it flush with the top of the block? I’ve long term repaired a hole in the block on a Landrover with it, also used araldite with good results too.

Merc leccy handbrakes are a PFA, they don’t go on until you pull the keys out of the ignition, I have a strep drive and can count the number of times I’ve nearly done that

I made my own using custom driveshafts from GB Engineering mounted onto Sierra Lobro joints, Machined up a couple of adaptors to mount the Lobro to the Nissan Flanges on diff and stub axle. Lobro’s only cost about £100 for 4 and Driveshafts not too expensive. I’ll look for pics but can’t find...

Yes. I reread my previous post where I said brake light warning switch. I meant to say the switch on the little block that tells you if ur brakes are out of balance. Try disconnecting that wire and see if it makes a difference.

Sounds like you have a wire going down to earth somewhere, damaged cable perhaps? Have you checked the brake light warning switch, do you still have it?