I'm going 1JZ

Russell

Club Member
I didn't Russell. I'm struggling with a really bad back at the moment so cant lift anything. I had a look yesterday but I think its behind some boxes I will need to move. You will have to bare with me I'm afraid but I do still have the parts somewhere.

For the tacho, I bought a mk3 supra instrument panel and removed the tacho part and put it in the zed housing. Worked OK but I eventually bought an autometer one in the end.

No problem at all, no rush as it wont be going in the car for a while yet.

Hope your back gets better soon, not much worse than a bad back.
 

Russell

Club Member
Z has had its last drive for a while under it's own steam. Hopefully get the engine out this week but only have until Thursday as I fly to Finland for the weekend to race lawn mowers on a frozen lakeIMG_0297.JPGIMG_0298.JPG


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Russell

Club Member
That's the first step complete. Engine and gearbox out and ready to go to their new homesIMG_0352.JPGIMG_0356.JPGIMG_0351.JPG

Next steps are to get the engine and gearbox mounts fabricated then move on to wiring and painting.

Sounds simple enough!


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Russell

Club Member
A couple more hours spent on it this evening.
I set about removing the dash to make rewording everything easier and have decided that while it's out I will strip everything to be cleaned, refurbished or replaced. I don't plan on removing it again so will get it right now.
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Meanwhile, Iain got started on the slam Panel. This will be removable and house the soarer aluminium radiator, intercooler and fans in between. This way the whole lot can be removed simply and give much better access to the front of the engine and for removing and installing it.
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Russell

Club Member
Slow progress as getting evening passes is getting more difficult. My wife is expecting our 4th baby any day and is struggling a bit.

Anyway, I escaped for a few hours and managed to get the engine bay completely stripped as well as the rest of the heater boxes etc.
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The first brand new part I ordered arrived and it looks like I measured correctly.
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Did hit a slight snag with the brake servo and master cylinder. When we removed it, brake fluid poured out of the vacuum pipe on the servo.
Appears that the low pressure side of the master cylinder has gone and leaked fluid back into the servo.
It didn't lose fluid so I assume it has been like it for a long time and filled it up!
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My thoughts are to source a rebuild kit for this master cylinder or upgrade to a larger one as the brakes will be upgraded at some stage.

What are everyone else's thoughts and does anyone have anything lying around on a shelf somewhere?


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johnymd

Club Member
Same intercooler as I bought. I then bought a 90 elbow, cut it in half and welded to the intercooler so the outlets went through the old air vent holes. There's probably a picture in my build thread.
 

Russell

Club Member
Same intercooler as I bought. I then bought a 90 elbow, cut it in half and welded to the intercooler so the outlets went through the old air vent holes. There's probably a picture in my build thread.

That's the plan, going to have welded pipes up to the engine so there wont be tons of silicone joiners.

Just need to get to a point that everything I take off doesn't have to be replaced which is really starting to get expensive!
 

Russell

Club Member
Well I have had a load of delays. Having a 4th child! But the engine and gearbox mounts are done and although it will go in and out about another thousand times this is a pretty great milestone for the project.
Here's some pics
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Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
It never ceases to amaze me how much aggro folks give themselves - 4 kids and an RB installation. :eek:

Keep the progress reports coming, they are always interesting.

Now go and get some sleep. ;)
 

Russell

Club Member
Bit of an update on proceedings. We had to move the engine a few mm back as the oil return from the turbo was too close to the bottom steering knuckle. About 3 hours of work readjusting the gearbox and engine mounts for no visible difference whatsoever!

No point adding a picture as it’s basically the same!

We have removed the wings and gone round the front end with a sharp screwdriver to asses the rust situation on the front end.
I was expecting the whole thing to fall apart but the only real section we need to cut out at this stage is the just in front of the door.
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The area under the scuttle panel is completely solid with not even any surface rust, the drain tube still intact etc. Main front chassis legs are solid, lots of repairs over the years but I’m not going for a concourse restoration. I’m going for solid. One day I might strip the car to the shell and do the whole thing properly, dipped etc. It today is not that day.
We are going to sandblast from the windscreen forward so I’m sure we will find more bits to fix!

Interior now stripped and I have made a start on the floors with a wire wheel so we can make a call on the floors.
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Underneath is getting new chassis rails. No pics yet but they are not solid enough.
Getting some made at a local firm and we are incorporating proper jacking points into them.
Few other areas that need attention underneath as well.

Here is how it looks now.
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The wooden frame is so we don’t go too high with anything under the Bonnet before it goes back on!


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Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Looks like your making good progress mate, looking forward to seeing how it keeps developing :thumbs:
 

Russell

Club Member
Part of the plan is to keep the inside looking as original as possible to it retains its 70’s charm. I want to keep the seats, the original gauges, including the clock.
On top of that I still want to be able to see boost pressure, AFR, any error the ecu can provide over and above the engine light which most people do with an led.
The ECU can produce errors such as Oil Level Low, Oil Pressure Low, Engine Light.
I also want to display oil temperature.

Enter - the tiniest OLED colour screen ever in the world ever. It’s really small!
Did I mention it was Small? It is just under 1” and will hide in the upper half of the tach about where the words “x1000” are printed.

The ECU generates each error by pulling the relevant pin to ground.
Each pin will be connected to an Arduino which will load the relevant image from an SD card and display it on the screen if there is a problem.
There will be an oil temperature sensor connected to it and the oil temperature will be displayed until it reaches operating temperature at which point it will be replaced with a boost gauge on one side and an AFR reading on the other side.
The oil temperature will reappear if it gets too hot.
I will cover off how I am doing the boost gauge and AFR when I buy the parts and start adding that into the system.
This is the screen:
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Did I mention it’s little?

I have a video of testing the ecu errors, just displayed as text at the moment.
You will have to use your imagination though as I can load a video with Tapatalk and I can’t be arsed to put it on YouTube and add a link.




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johnymd

Club Member
Nice to see your moving forward.

I notice the engine is quite a way further forward than I placed mine.
 

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Russell

Club Member
Nice to see your moving forward.

I notice the engine is quite a way further forward than I placed mine.

I noticed that when we put it in as well.
The gearstick comes out exactly in the centre of the opening almost to the mm (had to move the engine a bit) and the gearstick is a straight one.

Not looked into it in loads of detail but I am running a W58 box instead of your r154. Not sure if the boxes are different lengths, the bell housing or the linkage assembly.

The linkage looks to be a lot higher quality than a standard Toyota part and there is very little throw between gears, even compared to an mx-5 box which is the closest thing I could compare it to. Zero sloppiness compared to any mx-5 I have driven though.
 

Russell

Club Member
Another evening done working on the Z. I wish I was retired so I could spend more than just the odd tired evening on it.
Tonight’s plan was to get the front end ready for sand blasting.
First job, engine out again.
John you can see the linkage on the box that clearly makes mine sit further forward than yours.
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We are making the front panel removable as you can see by the fact that it’s missing!
The intercooler will mount to the removable piece and locate on some tabs at the bottom.
Engine and gearbox can be removed easily then. Also access to the front of the engine will be achieved by only having to remove minimal bolts.
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Engine and gearbox mounts can now be finalised and powder coated.
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Subframe off next. Will strip it down another evening
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Finally we threw together a quick solution to keeping the shell mobile with some scrap metal and an old swivel wheel. Again, will come up with a more elegant solution another night.
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All in all a pretty productive evening and pretty much ready to sandblast it now.


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candy red

Club Member
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Great work and good progress though does look a bit like a reliant robin :lol:

Derrick ;)
 

Russell

Club Member
Well that was a fun Sunday!

Spent all day today sandblasting the front end. We wanted to get as much done in the hard to reach areas as possible. The rest can be done with wire wheels etc.

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Many hours of making a horrible mess and we have broken the back of it.
We can now clearly see the areas that need work and it’s not as bad as I was worried about.

The last time it was painted the whole front end was stonechipped and the sand blaster really struggled to get through it.

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Next job is to get the rest of the paint off, fix the rust and then start on the underneath


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Russell

Club Member
Spent a few more hours with the wire wheel, scraper etc on the front near side. Tons of filler and under seal makes it really slow work.

If you look really closely you can see it has had one or two repairs in the past!!
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Tahr

Forum User
What are your plans with the previous repairs? It's solid so leave be, or cut them out and make good?

ATB

Kev
 
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